Vietnamese Street Food - Smarter Travel to Southeast Asia

Food in Saigon: Cô Liêng Diner

by Wes Thompson | May 18, 2025 | Food, Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), Vietnam

Food in Saigon: Discovering Cô Liêng: Saigon’s Iconic Bò Lá Lốt Destination

Tucked away on the bustling streets of District 3, Cô Liêng is a culinary gem in Ho Chi Minh City, renowned for its signature dish, bò lá lốt.

This unassuming, family-run eatery has been delighting diners since 1995 with its bold flavors, no-frills atmosphere, and deep commitment to preserving the essence of traditional Southern Vietnamese cuisine.

What started as a humble sidewalk setup has blossomed into a beloved local institution, known citywide—and now internationally—for its authentic recipes and warm hospitality.

Despite its simple exterior, Cô Liêng’s reputation precedes it and the diner offers very authentic food in Saigon. The restaurant has been recognized by the Michelin Guide, a testament to its consistency, quality, and cultural significance in Vietnam’s ever-evolving food landscape.

Yet what makes Cô Liêng so special isn’t just the accolades, it’s the experience: the sizzle of grilled meat wafting onto the street, the laughter of loyal customers, the bustling rhythm of service, and the joy of discovering a dish that manages to be both comforting and extraordinary.

IF you’re a Saigon local on a lunch break, a Vietnamese food connoisseur, or a first-time visitor curious about what lies beyond the city’s well-trodden tourist paths, Cô Liêng offers a taste of something real, enduring, and irresistibly delicious.

What Is Bò Lá Lốt?

Beef grilled in betel leaves ready to eat at Cô Liêng Diner.

At the heart of Vietnamese street food culture lies bò lá lốt, a dish that may seem modest at first glance, but is rich in history, flavor, and character. The name translates simply to “beef in betel leaf,” but that simplicity belies a vibrant and deeply satisfying culinary experience.

Bò lá lốt consists of seasoned minced beef, often mixed with shallots, garlic, lemongrass, fish sauce, and a touch of sugar, and lovingly hand-wrapped in fresh lá lốt (wild betel leaves), which are not to be confused with the areca betel leaves used in chewing tobacco.

These wild betel leaves are slightly peppery and herbaceous, and when grilled over open charcoal flames, they take on a smoky, almost caramelized quality that enhances the beef’s savoriness.

The aroma alone is unmistakable: a heady mix of grilled meat, leafy char, and street-side fire. But the real joy of bò lá lốt comes in the assembly. It’s rarely eaten alone. Instead, it’s part of a do-it-yourself platter that turns a simple dish into an interactive feast.

You will be served a woven bamboo tray brimming with rice vermicelli noodles (bún), fresh lettuce and herbs (like perilla, mint, and basil), pickled vegetables, and sheets of delicate rice paper.

The grilled rolls are tucked inside the paper along with the herbs and noodles, rolled up like a spring roll, and dipped into the star condiment: mắm nêm.

All the ingredients to make a delicious roll.

Mắm nêm is a bold, fermented anchovy sauce that packs a punch. It’s funky, salty, sweet, sour, and sometimes a little spicy, depending on the chef’s recipe. For those unfamiliar with its intensity, it might be an acquired taste, but it’s absolutely essential for the full bò lá lốt experience.

This dish is a perfect representation of Vietnamese culinary philosophy: balance, contrast, and community. It’s hearty yet fresh, smoky yet herbal, savory yet bright. And like many of the best Vietnamese dishes, it’s best enjoyed slowly, with your hands, among friends or family.

How to Eat Bò Lá Lốt Like a Local

One of the joys of Vietnamese cuisine is its interactive nature, and bò lá lốt is no exception. When your platter arrives, you’ll be presented with an assortment of ingredients, so think of this as an edible art project!

Here’s how to assemble the perfect roll:

Start with a sheet of rice paper (often softened with a dab of water by the staff or by you dipping it briefly into a small bowl).
Lay down a piece of lettuce. It helps keep the rice paper from tearing and adds a crisp base.
Add one or two pieces of hot, freshly grilled bò lá lốt.
Top with a small bundle of rice vermicelli noodles, and layer on herbs like mint, perilla, or Thai basil.
For brightness and crunch, include a few slices of pickled carrot and daikon.
Wrap it tightly like a spring roll, tucking in the edges as you go.
Finally, dip it into the mắm nêm sauce, a bold, fermented fish sauce that’s sweet, funky, and slightly spicy. It might be strong for first-timers, but it’s the secret to the full bò lá lốt flavor experience.

Don’t be afraid to get your hands messy; it’s part of the fun!

Portion Sizes and Sharing Tips

While a single order of bò lá lốt is usually enough for one hungry person, the portions are designed to be shared, Vietnamese family-style. If you’re dining with friends, it’s best to order a few different dishes and sample everything together.

The grilled meat rolls are often gone faster than expected, so don’t hesitate to ask for an extra half or full portion. The bánh hỏi nem nướng and chả đùm mỡ chài also make excellent complements to the main dish, offering different textures, cooking styles, and flavors that round out the meal.

If you’re not familiar with certain items on the menu, just ask! The staff are known for their friendliness, and they’re used to helping tourists choose dishes, even if your Vietnamese is limited.

Other Must-Try Dishes at Cô Liêng

While bò lá lốt rightfully takes center stage, Cô Liêng’s menu is a celebration of classic Southern Vietnamese food in Saigon that is every bit as mouthwatering and memorable.

Each item is presented with care, following family recipes and time-honored techniques that elevate street food into something truly special. Here are a few standout dishes you won’t want to miss:

Bánh Hỏi Nem Nướng

In addition to bo la lot, try the delicious nem nuong.

This dish is a textural wonder. It features juicy nem nướng, which is grilled pork sausage that’s slightly sweet, smoky, and seasoned with garlic and shallots. It’s served atop soft, finely woven sheets of bánh hỏi (rice vermicelli noodles intricately pressed into a lace-like form).

The noodles soak up the flavor of the meat and dipping sauce, while a side of fresh herbs, lettuce, and pickled carrots adds crunch and brightness. Dip the assembled roll into the house nước chấm (a fish sauce-based dressing), and you’ve got a bite that’s light yet deeply satisfying.

Chả Đùm Mỡ Chài

This lesser-known delicacy is a nod to traditional Vietnamese home cooking. Chả đùm is a steamed meatloaf-like dish made from finely minced pork or beef, glass noodles (miến), mushrooms, and aromatic herbs, all carefully wrapped in a thin layer of mỡ chài (caul fat).

When steamed, the caul fat melts just slightly, basting the meatball in its own juices and adding an indulgent, almost buttery texture. It’s soft, savory, and bursting with umami. It’s perfect alongside a bowl of warm rice or wrapped in rice paper with greens.

Cá Lóc Nướng

One of the most beloved fish dishes in Vietnam, cá lóc nướng features a whole snakehead fish grilled over open flame until the skin crisps and chars, while the inside remains tender, flaky, and succulent.

Often served with rice paper, herbs, and mắm nêm, this dish invites a hands-on, communal eating experience. Cô Liêng prepares it in true Southern style, that is, fragrant, unpretentious, and full of rustic charm.

The smoky flavor of the grilled fish pairs beautifully with the tang of pickled veggies and the funk of the dipping sauce.

Bún Thịt Nướng

This dish is a Vietnamese lunchtime favorite, and for good reason. Bún thịt nướng combines smoky, lemongrass-marinated grilled pork with a bed of cool vermicelli noodles, crunchy pickled vegetables, fresh herbs, roasted peanuts, and crispy shallots.

It’s then dressed with a generous pour of nước chấm, which ties the dish together with a perfect harmony of salty, sweet, sour, and spicy. It’s refreshing, filling, and ideal for Saigon’s warm weather.

At Cô Liêng, each dish is a taste of tradition, thoughtfully prepared and meant to be shared. Whether you’re building your own spring rolls or spooning grilled pork over rice noodles, the experience is as tactile and joyful as the flavors are bold and unforgettable.

Each dish is accompanied by an array of fresh herbs, pickled vegetables, and dipping sauces, enhancing the overall dining experience.
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A Legacy of Flavor and Recognition for Excellent Food in Saigon

Established by Ms. Trần Thị Kim Liêng in 1995, Cô Liêng has maintained its original recipes and commitment to quality for over three decades.

The restaurant’s dedication to authentic flavors and fresh ingredients has earned it a spot in the Michelin Guide, highlighting its significance in Saigon’s vibrant food scene.

Cô Liêng Diner has been recognized by the Michelin Guide for offering great food in Saigon.

Tourist-Friendly Dining

Cô Liêng is welcoming to international visitors, offering an English menu and a staff accustomed to assisting tourists. The restaurant’s walls are adorned with photographs of guests from around the world, reflecting its global appeal.

Tips for an Enjoyable Visit

Dining at Cô Liêng is more than just grabbing a bite; rather, it’s a hands-on, flavor-packed experience rooted in Vietnamese culinary tradition. To make the most of your visit, here are a few helpful tips and insights:

Best Time to Visit

Cô Liêng is a local favorite, so peak meal times, especially lunch (11:30 AM–1:30 PM) and dinner (6:00–8:00 PM), can get quite busy, with both neighborhood regulars and curious foodies filling every table.

To avoid the rush and enjoy a more relaxed atmosphere, consider coming during off-peak hours, such as mid-morning (around 10:00 AM) or mid-afternoon (around 3:00–4:00 PM). At these times, you’ll have more space to linger, take photos, and savor each bite without feeling hurried.

Tourist-Friendly and English Menu

Cô Liêng Diner is tourist friendly and has an English menu.

One of the most welcoming aspects of Cô Liêng is how accessible it is to non-Vietnamese speakers. The restaurant offers a clear English-language menu, often with photos, and the staff are patient and kind with international visitors looking for great food in Saigon.

You won’t feel out of place here, even if it’s your first time trying Vietnamese food.

The vibe is casual and relaxed, with plastic stools, metal chopsticks, and the wonderful clatter of a bustling kitchen nearby. If you’re hoping for a “real Saigon” experience that’s easy to navigate and incredibly tasty, this is the place to go.

Location and Accessibility

Address: 321 Võ Văn Tần Street, Ward 5, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Operating Hours: Daily from 8:30 AM to 9:30 PM.

Getting There from District 1: Cô Liêng is approximately a 10-minute drive from the heart of District 1. You can take a taxi, ride-hailing service, or even walk to the restaurant, enjoying the vibrant streets of Saigon along the way.

Cô Liêng offers a genuine taste of Southern Vietnamese cuisine, combining traditional recipes with a welcoming atmosphere.

Whether you’re a food enthusiast or a curious traveler looking for memorable food in Saigon, a visit to this iconic restaurant promises a memorable culinary adventure in the heart of Saigon.

3 Vietnamese Street Food Dishes Not to Miss

by Wes Thompson | Feb 27, 2025 | Food, Vietnam

In the vibrant maze of Vietnam’s streets, Vietnamese street food isn’t just something you eat, it’s an experience that tells a story. Let’s dive into three iconic dishes that capture the very soul of Vietnam’s street food culture: bánh cuốn, bánh canh, and bánh xèo.

Each of these dishes carries a rich history and a personal touch from the vendors who have perfected them over generations. But these three dishes are often overlooked by foodies exploring the rich culinary scenes that make up part of Vietnam’s colorful history!

Bánh cuốn, with its paper-thin steamed rice rolls, is a hidden treasure that reflects the delicate artistry of Vietnamese cuisine. Imagine watching a skilled vendor prepare the batter right before your eyes, pouring it over a steaming surface to create translucent, silky crepes.

These rolls, filled with a savory mix of minced pork, mushrooms, and sometimes shrimp, are a living tradition, a testament to the care and dedication passed down from one generation to the next.

Then there’s bánh canh, a hearty noodle soup that warms you from the inside out. Its thick, chewy noodles swim in a rich, savory broth that has been simmered for hours to extract deep, comforting flavors.

Both the pork version and the seafood-infused variant, is a reminder that every bowl of bánh canh is part of the resilience and warmth that defines Vietnam. It’s the kind of dish that invites you to slow down, savor every spoonful, and appreciate the simple joy of a well-made meal.

And of course, we can’t forget bánh xèo, the sizzling Vietnamese pancake that’s as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. Crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, bánh xèo is a burst of textures and flavors, filled with succulent shrimp, pork, and crunchy bean sprouts.

The unmistakable sound of the batter hitting the hot skillet, the waft of turmeric and coconut milk in the air, and the vibrant energy of the vendors bring this dish to life in a way that feels both timeless and thrilling.

As you journey through Vietnam’s bustling markets and colorful street corners, you’ll discover that these Vietnamese street food dishes are more than just food. They’re a reflection of the city’s heart and soul.

Each vendor has a story to tell: a family recipe, a secret ingredient, a passion for creating something that brings people together. In every bite, you taste history, culture, and the enduring spirit of a community that celebrates life through its flavors.

A Foodie’s Guide to Bánh Cuốn: The Delicate Rice Rolls of Vietnam

Banh cuon is a simple yet delicious dish when you just need a light meal.

Bánh cuốn is one of Vietnam’s hidden culinary delights, a dish that perfectly captures the delicate artistry of Vietnamese street food.

Imagine paper-thin sheets of steamed rice batter, lovingly rolled and filled with a savory mixture of minced pork, mushrooms, and sometimes shrimp, then garnished with fresh herbs and crispy fried shallots.

Every bite of bánh cuốn is an exploration of textures and flavors, blending the softness of the rice with the crunch of the garnish and the umami of the filling.

Strolling through the early morning streets of Vietnam, you’ll often encounter humble bánh cuốn vendors setting up shop outside bustling markets. These vendors prepare the rice batter right before your eyes, using a large, steaming pot to cook the thin crepes.

The skill and precision required to achieve the perfect balance of moistness and translucency is truly a sight to behold. Local families have been perfecting this art for generations. Each vendor brings a unique twist to the recipe, whether it’s a secret spice blend or a special herb garnish that sets their bánh cuốn apart.

Accompaniments are as essential as the rolls themselves. Typically, bánh cuốn is served with a side of tangy, slightly spicy nước chấm (dipping sauce) that ties all the flavors together.

Fresh slices of cucumber, herbs like cilantro and mint, and sometimes a scattering of fried shallots add even more layers to this delightful dish. For many Vietnamese locals, bánh cuốn is a breakfast staple. It’s a light yet satisfying meal that kickstarts the day with both flavor and flair.

What makes bánh cuốn so endearing is not only its exquisite taste but also the experience of enjoying it. Whether you’re grabbing a quick bite on the go or sitting down for a relaxed breakfast at a local stall, the atmosphere is imbued with the vibrancy of daily life in Vietnam.

The conversation between the vendor and customer, the rhythmic sound of the steaming process, and the bustling energy of the morning market all contribute to a meal that’s as much about community and tradition as it is about food.

So next time you’re wandering the streets of Vietnam, be sure to stop by a bánh cuốn stall. Savor the delicate, fresh flavors, and appreciate the care that goes into making every roll. It’s a delicious journey into the heart of Vietnamese culinary tradition, one that leaves you both satisfied and eager for more.

A Foodie’s Guide to Bánh Canh: A Hearty Vietnamese Noodle Soup Experience

Banh canh is a tasty soup and is a mainstay of Vietnamese street food in the south.

If you’re in the mood for something warm, comforting, and full of robust flavors, look no further than bánh canh.

This hearty Vietnamese noodle soup is a favorite among locals for its satisfying texture and rich, savory broth that speaks volumes about Vietnam’s diverse culinary heritage.

Bánh canh features thick, chewy noodles made from tapioca or rice flour, which provide a delightful contrast to the velvety broth in which they are served.

The soup itself is typically infused with a medley of flavors—ranging from pork, crab, or shrimp—to create a rich, complex taste that warms you from the inside out.

Both the pork version with tender slices of meat and a hint of caramelized sweetness and the seafood variant brimming with fresh crab meat is all about comfort and depth.

In Vietnam, bánh canh is often enjoyed as a filling lunch or a satisfying dinner, especially on cooler days. Small roadside stalls and bustling markets serve up steaming bowls of this noodle soup with an array of garnishes such as chopped scallions, cilantro, and a splash of lime juice to brighten the flavors.

Some vendors even add a dash of chili or a spoonful of crispy shallots to give the dish an extra layer of texture and spice. Every bowl is a testament to the meticulous care that goes into balancing the flavors—sweet, salty, and tangy—in each serving.

One of the most charming aspects of bánh canh is the personal touch each vendor brings to the dish. Many of these recipes have been handed down through generations, and each vendor’s bowl tells a story of tradition and innovation.

As you enjoy your bowl, take a moment to appreciate the history and culture infused in every sip of broth and every bite of noodle. It’s will become obvious that bánh canh is an experience that connects you with the heart and soul of Vietnam’s street food scene.

For any foodie looking for a taste of authentic Vietnamese comfort food, bánh canh is a must-try. Its satisfying texture, rich broth, and the harmonious blend of flavors make it a dish that not only fills your stomach but also warms your heart.

The next time you find yourself wandering through Vietnam, dive into a bowl of bánh canh and let the flavors tell you the story of this incredible city.

A Foodie’s Guide to Bánh Xèo: The Sizzling Vietnamese Pancake

Banh xeo is a unique Vietnamese food found throughout the nation’s south.

If you’re craving something crispy, savory, and bursting with flavor, bánh xèo is the dish to try. This golden, turmeric-infused pancake is a staple of Vietnamese street food, offering a delightful contrast of textures and tastes in every bite.

Bánh xèo gets its name from the sizzling sound the batter makes as it hits the hot pan. Made from rice flour, coconut milk, and turmeric, the pancake develops a crisp, lacy edge while staying tender inside.

It’s filled with a mouthwatering mix of shrimp, thinly sliced pork, and crunchy bean sprouts, all coming together in a symphony of flavors.

In Vietnam, vendors cook bánh xèo in small roadside stalls, pouring the batter into well-seasoned pans and expertly flipping the pancakes to achieve the perfect crispness. The real magic happens when it’s time to eat!

Fresh herbs like mint, basil, and perilla leaves are wrapped around the pancake, then dipped into a tangy nước chấm sauce that enhances the dish’s savory depth.

There’s a joy in the hands-on experience of eating bánh xèo. Whether you wrap it in rice paper or lettuce leaves, each bite delivers a perfect balance of crunch, freshness, and umami.

Some vendors put their own spin on the dish, adding extra seafood, mushrooms, or even green onions for an extra layer of flavor.

Bánh xèo is truly a celebration of Vietnamese cuisine’s vibrant and communal nature. Sitting at a bustling street-side eatery, tearing off pieces of the pancake, and dipping them into sauce while chatting with friends makes the experience just as memorable as the flavors.

The next time you explore Vietnam’s street food scene, be sure to seek out a sizzling plate of bánh xèo. The crispy exterior, fragrant filling, and fresh herbs create a dish that embodies everything there is to love about Vietnamese food: bold flavors, simple ingredients, and the joy of sharing a great meal.

I hope you found this post on Vietnamese street food to be helpful as you being your journey through the culinary delights that define this unique nation.