Saigon is known for its many interesting Buddhist and Taoist pagodas, many of which have large historical importance in the history of the city.
One that serves as a great example is Xá Lợi Pagoda in District 3, which is the largest pagoda in the city and well worth a visit by travelers. This is not so much for its visual beauty, but rather for the historical importance of the pagoda, which once served as the headquarters of Buddhism is South Vietnam.
Please note that the doors to the main hall of the pagoda close around lunchtime, so I would highly recommend you arrive to the pagoda well before then, or later in the afternoon.
Xá Lợi is a relic repository, housing a sacred relic of the Buddha. In fact, the name Xá Lợi is the Vietnamese translation for the Sanskrit term used for relics of Buddhism.
The pagoda is not far from the tourist area in District 1, so it’s easy to find on your own. However, it is a bit off the beaten tourist path, but any taxi driver would know immediately how to get you there.
History of the Xá Lợi Pagoda
Construction began in August 1956 and the pagoda was formally opened on May 2, 1958. It has a much more modern design, with less ornamentation, than many other Buddhist temples in Vietnam. In 1963, the South Vietnamese president, Ngô Đình Diệm, a Roman Catholic, ordered the raid and vandalization of Xá Lợi and several other nearby pagodas, in response to widening protests by the Vietnamese people against suppression of Buddhism in South Vietnam.
The raids, as well as other blatant mistreatment of Buddhist adherents, turned out to be a major political blunder for Diệm and many believe these contributed to his downfall. Prior to the raids, for example, the Vietnamese were ambivalent regarding religion. But they became intolerant of Diệm’s direct and unprovoked violence against a faith perceived as peaceful and non-threatening.
President Diệm was assassinated, along with his brother, later in 1963. In addition to the Buddha relic, the charred heart of Thích Quảng Đức, the monk who set himself ablaze to protest against the policies Diệm, is housed in Xá Lợi as well.
Visiting the Xá Lợi Pagoda
If you go, you will need to enter from the side, as the front gate is almost always locked. Motorbike parking is also available at the side entrance. The temple doesn’t charge for parking, but there is a wooden donation box just to the side of the entrance and donations of about 5,000 dong (US$0.22) are very much appreciated.
The Statue of Quan Âm
The statue of Quan Âm Outside Xa Loi Pagoda in Saigon
First, on the exterior side of the pagoda, you will encounter a statue of the bodhisattva Quan Âm, the deity of mercy and compassion, cherished by Buddhists. This statue is designed in Chinese style and depicts her holding a vase pouring out an elixir in one hand and making a gesture of peace in the other.
Almost all Buddhist pagodas in Vietnam have a statue of Quan Âm somewhere in their exterior garden. After visiting the statue, head around to the front of the pagoda, where you will see two sets of stairs.
Years ago, visitors to the pagoda would separate by gender, with men ascending via the stairs on the left side, and men on the right. However, these days, I have seen both men and women using whichever staircase they prefer.
The Main Hall
The Main Hall of Xa Loi Pagoda is peaceful and interesting to see.
The pagoda’s main hall is at the top of the stairs. Be sure to remove your shoes before entering. Inside, you will see the huge, bronze-colored statue of Guatama Buddha, seated in a meditation position atop a lotus blossom.
He is wearing the robes of a monk and has a noticeable protuberance on his head, indicating intelligence and understanding, and has closely cropped hair, symbolic of his renunciation of his wordily life. The sun disk behind his head is symbolic of his enlightenment.
The statue was created by local sculptures and has remained unchanged since 1969, when a gold coating was applied. The relics of the pagoda are enshrined in a small stupa (the Buddhist version of a steeple).
As is common in Buddhist temples, an image of the “Laughing Buddha,” symbolic of good fortune, wealth, a successful career, and a fulfilling life rests just under the main Buddha statue. golden image of multi-armed Cundi sitting in meditation on a lotus blossom. The statue’s many hands hold symbolic objects such as a lotus flower (purification), a sword (wisdom), a wheel (eternal life), and an axe (cutting off of evil practices).
Chinese-style vases on both sides of the altar hold flowers of various colors as part of the offerings to the Buddhas.
The large “sun disk” behind his head indicates enlightenment. The statue was carved in Biên Hòa, a city to the north of Saigon. In front of the statue of the Buddha is an encased shrine housing the relics of the Buddha.
Scenes from the life of Gautama Buddha
While inside, take a close look at the series of large panels overhead near the ceiling. These are famous hand-painted scenes depicting the life of the Buddha, from his birth to his attainment of nirvana.
The paintings were created by Dr. Nguyen Van Long, an instructor at a local art school. Many Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia will have similar scenes of the Buddha’s life painted on their walls. There is a key explaining each scene in English located on a large chart just to the right inside the main entrance. Also worth noting is the large image of the Buddha seated in meditation under a fig tree.
The Bell Tower
The bell tower of the Xa Loi Pagoda in Saigon
The bell tower of Xá Lợi Pagoda was opened in 1961. The tower rises to 105 feet (32 meters) tall, has seven stories, and is the highest bell tower in Vietnam. On the uppermost level, there is a bell weighing two tons.
The Xá Lợi Pagoda is well worth a visit to truly understand an important part of the history of Ho Chi Minh City. Take the time to visit this interesting and historical venue.
Getting to Xa Loi Pagoda
Address: 89 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan St, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Open Hours: Daily from 7:00am to 11:00am and from 2:00pm to 5:00pm. (Hours are often irregular, so it’s best to avoid lunchtime hours.
There are so many things to see in Ho Chi Minh City, also known as Saigon, and the city has so many things to offer those who visit here. Sometimes, it’s a challenge to know where to start.
It’s so often the architecture that makes a city, and Saigon certainly has more than its fair share of outstanding structures. These add to the charm and attraction of this dynamic city.
The cityscape is a wonderfully eclectic mix of architectural styles, including French colonial, traditional Vietnamese, Chinese, and avant-garde modern. Some neighborhoods will have a great selection of a certain style. For example, Saigon’s Chinatown has some splendid examples of Chinese-style temples, houses, and shops.
Districts 1 and 3 have a nostalgic selection of French-built buildings. But sprinkled throughout the city are unique and fascinating well-designed modern structures, which add a great variety and interesting contrast to the older ones.
Buildings in Saigon that you should make an effort to see are the magnificent Hôtel de Ville de Saïgon (The old Saigon City Hall), the Municipal Theater (Opera House), the Central Post Office, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Saïgon (The Cathedral of Our Lady of Saigon), the Independence Palace (Reunification Palace) and Ben Thanh Market.
Hôtel de Ville de Saïgon (The Old Saigon City Hall)
The Magnificent Hôtel de Ville de Saïgon
Saigon’s old City Hall — Hôtel de Ville de Saïgon in French — is today the headquarters of the People’s Committee of Ho Chi Minh City.
The building is located at the end of Nguyen Hue Street, at the opposite end away from the Saigon River. It is perfectly permissible to take photos from the exterior of the building, but note that as the building serves as official government offices, the public is not allowed inside.
It’s a grand old Parisian-style building built by the French in 1908. It is one of Saigon’s best examples of French Colonial architecture. Be sure to take a walk by it at night, when floodlights show off the building at its best.
In front of the structure you will not be bale to miss the large statue of Ho Chi Minh. It’s a new statue and replaces the one that sat in front of the City Hall for many years, depicting Uncle Ho sitting with a book and teaching a child.
Nguyen Hue Street Pedestrian Promenade
In May 2015, the city completed a total refurbishing of Nguyen Hue Street, starting at the City Hall and going all the way to the Saigon River. The street features a pedestrian-only promenade that runs the entire length of the street, complete with water works, ambient lighting, and new trees. It’s a great place to take an evening stroll in one of Saigon’s most historic centers. It’s a bit hot during the day, and not much happens on the promenade anyway, so evenings are definitely a better time to experience it.
You will encounter all manner of street performances, vendors, families out for a stroll, and maybe even a live concert usually held at the river-end of the promenade. Be sure to guard wallets, purses, cameras, and mobile phones, as all the action serves as the perfect venue for pickpockets and snatchers.
The Municipal Theater (Opera House)
The Municipal Theatre, or Opera House, is a beautiful building in Ho Chi Minh City
The Municipal Theater of Ho Chi Minh City is often also called the Opera House. It’s a charming and elegant structure that adds much to the city’s downtown area. It’s located on Le Loi Street, at the opposite end from Ben Thanh Market.
Construction was completed on the neoclassical-style building in 1897. It was designed by French architect Eugène Ferret, who was inspired by the Garnier Opera House and the Little Palace (Petit Palaise) in Paris. The theater seats 800 people.
The Opera House began its existence as a popular entertainment venue for the French elite. Grand performances were staged here for the French officials assigned to Saigon. During the 1950s the South Vietnam government’s Lower Assembly was housed there. Later, the building was unused and fell into decline.
Restoration of the Municipal Theatre
Fortunately, in 1998, in an effort to return the showpiece to its original grandeur, major restorations were conducted to great effect. Today, the theater is one of Saigon’s most prominent structures.
You can walk up to the building’s entrance and try to go inside. Often, the guards will just look at you and at most, will simply wave you away if access to the building is closed at the time. It’s a very photogenic building and well worth it to try to get to see the interior.
As with the Old City Hall (People’s Committee Hall), the Opera House is quite spectacular at night, when floodlights give it an amber glow, causing the theater to stand out beautifully against the Saigon night.
Hotel Continental Saigon
The Historical Hotel Continental
The Hotel Continental Saigon is a historical hotel located on Dong Khoi Street just to the side of the Opera House (Municipal Theater). It was built in 1880 by Pierre Cazeau, a construction materials manufacturer who lived in the city.
It is named after the esteemed accommodation in Paris by the same name. The hotel was built to lodge French visitors to the city with the luxurious quarters that they were accustomed to in Paris, after the arduous trip from France to Saigon.
The Continental is a Movie Star
The hotel was the inspiration for scenes in Graham Greene’s novel The Quiet American, about a British journalist and a young American CIA operative. Part of the book’s film adaptations, in 1958 and 2002, were filmed on location there. The Continental is also a leading scene location for the Academy Award-winning movie Indochine.
It its past, the Continental served as a venue for novelists, journalists, politicians, and business leaders to keep up with the political and business topics of the day.
After Vietnam’s renunciation in 1975, Jacques Chirac, who was mayor of Paris at the time, Malaysian Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamed, and a group of other world leaders met at the hotel to exchange views on the future of the nation.
Throughout its history, the Hotel Continental Saigon has undergone renovations and name changes and currently has 80 guest rooms. If you would like to stay at this historical hotel, you can get good rates at Agoda, a hotel booking service that I use and recommend.
Rex Hotel
The Rex Hotel has an interesting history.
The Rex Hotel is another of the city’s grand and noble hotels. Situated on the corner across from the old Saigon City Hall, the Rex commands an impressive presence.
Take a break from all that walking and have a drink or a meal at the bar on the top floor. It’s open to the public and you would be welcome there whether or not you are staying at the hotel. From here you can get some great views and photos of the surrounding area. This is Saigon’s most attractive intersection, in my humble opinion.
The hotel began its existence as a commerce center and garage in early 1927, which was in place until 1959. The center showcased the European car Citroën. Then, efforts began to convert the building into a hotel, which also included three movie theaters, a large reading room, and a dining facility.
The first guests at the hotel were U.S. Army soldiers from the states of Washington and North Carolina, sent to Saigon as part of an army helicopter and transportation unit in 1961.
The Rex During the Vietnam War
Later, during the war in Vietnam, the hotel housed the American Forces Information Service, and it quickly became a favorite hangout for U.S. military leaders. It was where the Information Service delivered daily press briefings, known as the “five o’clock follies,” to foreign correspondents.
By war’s end in 1975, the complex, known as the Rex Trading Center, was owned by the government’s SaigonTourist, a primary travel and accommodations company in Saigon. A few years later, the building was called Ben Thanh, which it is still called by some older Vietnamese to this day.
In 1986, it was rebranded and trademarked as the “Rex Hotel.” It has 284 guest rooms, meeting facilities, a large reception room often booked for weddings and other large events, six restaurants, a luxury spa, a respectable cafe, and a bar.
Major brands are sold in shops on the ground floor, such as Polo, Bulgari, Chanel, and Polo.
Ben Thanh Market
The Iconic Ben Thanh Market in Saigon
The Ben Thanh Market is a symbol of the city and one of its most popular locations for visitors to Saigon. It’s a fun place to visit and you can see all manner of wares for sale in the stalls inside during the day, from early in the morning until 6:00pm.
After that, the market is the home of Saigon’s famed night market, held outside the building. The night market’s stalls are set up every evening, rain or shine, at 7:00pm and taken down again late at night. In addition to clothing, lanterns, jewelry, and handicrafts, there are many good places to eat at the day and night markets.
Both the day and night markets are great venues for photography, especially of the wide mix of people you can see there.
The market traces its roots to 1859, when the French established its predecessor at the site of the Gia Định citadel. A fire ravaged the market in 1870 and was rebuilt, becoming the largest market in the city. However, the market was moved in 1912 to its current location at the end of Le Loi Street. The building underwent a major renovation in 1985.
A Note of Caution When Visiting the Ben Thanh Market
Be cautious if you shop at the Ben Thanh Market, day or night. Nothing there is authentic, and shoppers are often highly overcharged for inferior quality items. Be sure to hone your bargaining skills before shopping there. Offer less than half the original asking price and go at most to the half-way point. Even then, you are most likely still paying too much.
The market is better for taking in the spectacle than for purchasing souvenirs. If you see something there that you really do want, try stepping down one of the streets leading off to the side from the market. There, you will likely find much better prices because these shops are off the main path from the market.
The Central Post Office of Ho Chi Minh City
The Central Post Office in District 1
The Central Post Office of Ho Chi Minh City is an outstanding French-style structure that serves as a magnificent example of French colonial architecture in Saigon.
The distinguished old landmark was constructed between 1886 and 1891 and resembles a classical French railroad depot.
It is still a fully operating post office today, in fact Saigon’s largest and busiest, but also serves as a popular tourist attraction. Feel free to walk inside, as it’s open to the public.
Some of the most popular characteristics of the building’s interior are the large old maps of Vietnam and the famous portrait of Ho Chi Minh painted on the walls of the tall domed ceiling. It’s perfectly fine to take photographs inside the building.
In the times prior to mobile phones and extensive Internet-based services, many residents and visitors used the post office for telephone, Internet, and fax services. It is located on Dong Khoi Street just down from the Municipal Theater in the opposite direction from the river.
Just across the street from the post office is Saigon’s Roman Catholic Cathedral.
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Saigon (Our Lady of Saigon Cathedral)
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Saigon (Our Lady of Saigon Cathedral)
The Our Lady of Saigon Cathedral is another one of the city’s jewels. It is located on Dong Khoi Street just across from the Central Post Office.
It was built by the French between 1877 and 1880 in the Romanesque style, with some additional Gothic qualities added for ornamental purposes. One of the most interesting facts about the cathedral is that practically all of the building materials needed to construct it were painstakingly imported from France.
The cathedral was partially damaged during the war so some of the current elements were created in Saigon for the propose of repair.
The cathedral had stained-glass windows, also made in France, but sadly, they were destroyed during World War II. Its interior is very humble, in contrast to most European cathedrals of the same size and design.
Another notable component of the cathedral are the two bell towers at the front. These towers are each 190 feet (58 meters) tall but weren’t added until 1895, 15 years after the completion of the original structure. The towers house three bells each, which ring on special occasions in the Christian faith.
Young couple having wedding photos taken near the cathedral
Be sure to also visit Paris Park, situated just in front of the cathedral, which is a popular hangout for locals and tourists alike and always makes a good place to people watch. The statue of Mary that you see there was placed in 1959 by the then bishop of Saigon, Joseph Pham Van Thien, who ordered it while he was in Rome for a conference at the Vatican.
You will see many soon-to-be-married couples having their wedding photos taken with the cathedral as a backdrop.
If you are interested in seeing a service, Mass is said in English every Sunday at 9:30am.
The Independence Palace (The Reunification Palace)
The Independence Palace, a modern and elegant building in the city
One of the buildings I find most interesting in Ho Chi Minh City is the Independence Palace. Some people call it the Reunification Palace, usually based on political leanings.
If you like Avant-guard architectural design, then you should certainly include this fascinating place on your itinerary.
The Independence Palace was the home and workplace of South Vietnamese President Nguyễn Văn Thiệu.
It’s an imposing structure, sitting on a large, gated compound at the end of the elegant Lê Duẩn Street and Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street. It was built from 1962 to 1968 and was designed by Vietnamese architect Ngô Viết Thụ, who trained in Paris.
Construction began after the existing structure on the site, Norodom Palace (named after the king of Cambodia) was heavily damaged by two rebel South Vietnamese fighter pilots who bombed it in an attempt to assassinate South Vietnam’s first president, Ngô Đình Diệm, in 1962.
Both the interior and exterior of the palace have a clean and minimalist design, and the furnishings are simple yet graceful.
The palace became a symbol for the fall of Saigon in 1975, after Soviet-made tanks driven by North Vietnamese Army soldiers crashed through the front gates. Soon after, the transfer of power from South to North took place inside.
The building is a museum today, and is one of the main things to see in Ho Chi Minh City, with all the rooms set up exactly as they were when it served as the presidential palace and South Vietnamese government offices.
The palace is open for visits Monday through Friday from 7:30 – 11:00am and from 1:00 – 4:30pm, as long as official receptions or ceremonies are not taking place at the time. Admission is 30,000 dong (about US$1.40) for adults and 3,000 dong (about US$.40) for children.
Bitexco Financial Tower
The Bitexco Financial Tower, a landmark in the city
A true landmark building that can be spotted from just about any direction in Saigon, the Bitexco Financial Tower is quite a unique skyscraper. It is located in the city’s Central Business District just off Nguyen Hue Street, close to the Saigon River.
It opened in October 2010. The building was designed by Venezuelan-American architect Carlos Zapata, whose main office is in New York City. Zapata drew inspiration for the building’s design from the lotus, the national flower of Vietnam.
It makes for an intriguing visit for travelers in itself, but a major attraction here is the Saigon Skydeck, a large observation deck toward the top floor. An express elevator whisks you to the top of the tower, where stunning photos of the city can be taken.
The Skydeck is open daily from 9:30am to 9:30pm, with last ticket sales at 8:45pm. The entrance fee is 200,000 dong, about US$9.35.
The tower has 68 floors and reaches a height of 860 feet (262 meters), once making it the tallest building in the city. This is an accolade was held until 2017, when a taller skyscraper, Landmark 81, opened in Binh Thanh District.
A unique feature of the building is what is Vietnam’s first helicopter pad. It shoots out 72 feet (22 meters) from the base of the tower and is capable of holding a helicopter weighing under three tons. It’s supposed to be a lotus flower’s petal. In the years since the building has opened, I have never seen a helicopter land there, however.
Within the building are offices of various companies, restaurants, retail space, and a cinema.
There is also a popular bar and ice-cream shop for you to enjoy some refreshments. It’s also a great place to get some views of the city, as you can see for miles from the windows. Don’t expect bargain prices typical of other attractions in Southeast Asia, however. Prices are comparatively on the high end.
There are many wonderful things to see in Ho Chi Minh City so take the time to plan ahead. But don’t worry, if you don’t get to see everything that you would like, you can use that as a reason to return to this fascinating place!
One of the best things you can do while traveling is to eat and Bangkok street food can be an exciting culinary adventure!
No doubt about it. Trying out the local cuisine, and especially eating like the locals themselves, is one of the things that makes visiting a new land, or returning to see a favorite locale, so much fun. Often, it is through enjoying local cuisine that you learn so much about the culture and history of the place you are traveling.
Bangkok street food is a perfect example. It’s a real treat and with a little know how, you can have a popular Thai cuisine experience that will not soon be forgotten.
The History of Street Food in Thailand
The history of street food in Thailand goes back to the early 1800s. During that time, floating markets featured food sold by vendors from boats. But it was really about 1960 or so that saw a truly remarkable rise in popularity with locals and travelers alike, especially in Bangkok.
This new demand for Thai street food was created primarily by the quick growth in urbanization and increased mobility in the city. This created demand for quick, convenient, and portable food offerings for workers, university students, and business travelers on a tight schedule.
Thus, Bangkok street food became a highly affordable and easily accessible feature in food markets. These employed the rich culinary traditions of the agricultural way of life in Thailand.
You can find some delicious, nutritious, and fulfilling street food in Bangkok today that is high in quality, since the vendors rely heavily on the strength of their reputation among locals.
If you’re looking for some of the most popular and flavorful Thai food, you should look no further than the many food stalls in Bangkok and other cities in Thailand offering this unique and educational experience right in the streets.
If you’re looking for some of the most popular and flavorful Thai food, you should look no further than the many food stalls in Bangkok and other cities in Thailand offering this unique and educational experience right in the streets.
Following are some of my recommendations for the new visitor to this land so rich in culinary offerings.
Enjoying the delicious street food is one of the best things to do in Bangkok. Street food can be found all over the city, but one of my favorite culinary areas is Silom Road, from Suriwong Road to the other side of Silom Road and from Rama IV Road to Naradhiwat Rajanagarindra Road. It’s where the Sky Train makes a left turn.
If you are new to Thai food and need some starter tips, try the following.
Pad Thai
Pad Thai is a very popular and well known street food in Thailand.
Pad Thai is one of the signature dishes of modern Thai cuisine. It’s one of the most common street-food dishes in Thailand. But it’s not a centuries-old traditional Thai dish. Rather, it was only invented in the mid-20th century and the cooking technique and most ingredients were actually introduced by Chinese immigrants 250 years ago.
But pad Thai is still a favorite among locals and tourists and you’ll often see students and office workers on a lunch or dinner break enjoying a plate of this popular fare.
It is made with stir-fried rice noodles, eggs, chopped tofu, fish sauce, shallots, garlic, either shrimp or chicken, and the pulp of tamarind. Bean sprouts, chopped peanuts, and lime are served on the side and ground chili and spicy vinegar can be added to taste.
A vegetarian version can be had that substitutes soy sauce for the fish sauce and features tofu in place of the meat.
Thai Green Curry
Thai green curry is a mildly spicy and delicious icon of Thai cuisine.
A truly rich and delicious dish that is an icon of Thai cuisine is Thai green curry. It’s made with curry paste, which is a mix of green chilies that are not too spicy, garlic, ground onion, lemongrass, black pepper, limes, and cumin. The paste is mixed with coconut milk, giving it a spicy-creamy flavor.
The curry sauce is heated and then your choice of chicken, pork, or fish is added, along with whole dried mint leaves. You can often find a vegetarian version of Thai green curry. The dish is served over steamed white rice.
Tip: In Bangkok, you can try this yummy dish at the street food vendor on Surawong Road near Thaniya Road, in the Silom area. It’s just down from the Jim Thompson silk shop. They have other great selections of Bangkok street food as well.
In addition to green curry, there are red curry and yellow curry Thai dishes, each with a unique taste, but all equally delicious.
Chicken with Rice
Chicken with rice is a simple but delicious street food found all over Thailand.
Chicken and rice is a very simple dish, but it is a tradition in Thailand. It’s simply boiled chicken breast served over rice. It’s almost always a nice plump and juicy breast of the chicken.
It is traditionally served with a sauce on the side that you can add to taste. The sauce is a little spicy. It’s what gives this dish its great flavor and the more you can take it, the better the food will taste. An order of this dish also comes with a nice light chicken-broth soup with a bit of white rice in it.
This is the perfect dish when you want something light but fulfilling. You will see the boiled chickens hanging in a widow of a restaurant or food stall that serves this delicious dish.
Thai Noodle Soup with BBQ Pork
Noodle soup with pork is a favorite street food with both locals and travelers alike.
Thai noodle soup with BBQ pork is a tasty dish that you’ll see served all over Thailand.
This dish is quick, cheap, and easy, so if you’re short on time, give this treat a try. It’s simply made with boiled egg noodles, scallions, wontons, and a delicious, slightly sweet, thinly sliced BBQ pork.
Many street food stalls in Bangkok specialize in this dish, especially around the Silom Road area. If you find yourself near Silom and Convent Road, and can get a seat there, it’s a place I highly recommend.
Chicken or Pork Skewers
Chicken or pork skewers make a great meal on the run or a delicious late-night snack.
BBQ chicken or pork skewers are a mainstay in many parts of Thailand and can be found every evening all over Bangkok. If you’re in the Silom Road area at night, you will see skewer carts all up and down the streets. They make a great quick meal or late-night snack.
Marinated chicken and pork are speared onto a wooden skewer and then barbecued over hot coals right on the cart from which they are served. They are quite satisfying and taste delicious!
Papaya Salad
Papaya salad, also called “som tam,” is a delicious treat while traveling in Thailand.
This dish is a spicy salad made with shredded green (unripe) papaya, lime juice, cherry tomatoes, sweetened fish sauce, palm sugar, and chili peppers pounded in a mortar.
The truly authentic Thai version also contains crushed water crabs, but this may be an “acquired taste” for many Westerners. It’s no problem to ask your server to leave them off. I always do and it’s never been a problem.
This dish is also popular in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. In Thailand, it is also known as “som tam.”
It’s best to eat papaya salad with sticky rice. In Thailand, sticky rice is usually served in a small bamboo basket with a plastic bag inside. Just remove the top of the basket and, leaving the bag of rice inside, break off a small piece with your fingers (it’s perfectly acceptable), roll it into a ball, and dip it into the juice on the plate. It’s delicious!
Mango with Sticky Rice
Satisfy your sweet tooth with a lovely serving of mango with sticky rice.
OK, I had to include one dessert in this list. We have to satisfy our sweet tooth after a great Bangkok street food meal. And you can’t get much better than mango with sticky rice.
We have to satisfy our sweet tooth after a great Bangkok street food meal. And you can’t get much better than mango with sticky rice.
This is a rich and creamy dessert that is famous throughout Thailand. It’s not as easy to find as other Thai street food dishes, but if you come across it, it’s certainly something not to miss.
It’s simple to make, really, yet serves as an excellent example of Bangkok street food that’s fun to try. It’s a mango peeled and sliced into an appropriate size served with sticky rice, all of which is topped with coconut milk.
One of my favorite spots to get mango with sticky rice and other Bangkok street food is at a stand on Surawong Road in the Silom area, in between the Jim Thompson silk shop and Thaniya Road. You’ll usually see a line forming near the cart but it goes quickly and it’s worth the wait.
Looking for things to do in Chiang Mai during your trip to Thailand? Chiang Mai is an awesome and very photogenic city in the north of Thailand known for its scenic beauty and peaceful surroundings.
There are many places to visit in Chiang Mai, whether you are seeking peace and quiet or activities for the more adventurous. This city is at the top of the list of places I would recommend when visiting Thailand.
Some of my favorite places to visit here are Wat Chedi Luang, an ancient temple within walking distance of many parts of the city; the magnificent Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, and the Karen tribal village. For nature lovers, a must-see is the Doi Inthanon National Park. And you just can’t go wrong just taking a leisurely stroll through the city’s renowned night bazaar.
Visit Wat Chedi Luang
Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai
Wat Chedi Luang is a fascinating (and free) place to visit right in the historical heart of the city. It really stands out architecturally and can make for some great photos.
Building was started on this temple in 1391 by King Saen Muang Ma to house the ashes of his father, King Ku Na, but after 10 years of work, it was still unfinished. After King Saen’s death, construction was continued by his widow; however, it took until 1475 for the temple to finally be finished.
The height of the temple rose to 280 feet (84 meters), but in 1545 an earthquake caused severe damage to the temple. Its current height is 196 feet (60 meters).
For a time, the temple housed the Emerald Buddha, one of most sacred objects in all of Thailand. After the earthquake, the statue was moved to Luang Prabang in Laos, and is now housed in Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok.
The temple is architecturally unique and there is no charge to enter. You can walk around and view all four sides of the temple. It’s especially beautiful in the evening hours, just before sunset.
One of the most interesting things you can do at the temple is to take part in the Monk Chats, where you sit with a group of monks and learn more about Buddhism while at the same time helping the monks improve their English.
The best times to enjoy this activity is early Saturday mornings, around 7:30 or 8:00 AM.
Getting to Wat Chedi Luang
Getting to Wat Chedi Luang is easy, as it’s right in the center of the city. You can most likely even walk there if your hotel is near the city center. The address of the temple is 103 Road King Prajadhipok Phra Singh, Muang District.
Tour the Lovely Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
An altar at Wat Doi Suthep
Another must-see place in Chiang Mai is Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. It one of the most sacred sites in the north of Thailand.
The temple was believed to have been built starting in 1383 to house relics of the Buddha brought to the area by King Kue Na Thammikarat. The temple sits on top of a hill 3,450 feet (1,050 meters) high from which you can enjoy magnificent views of the surrounding areas.
Once you arrive at the temple along a road that was only built in 1935, be prepared to walk up over 300 steps to get to the temple. It’s not that rough at all, really, but if you feel climbing all those steps is not for you, you can take a cable car to the top for only 20 baht (US$.65).
At the top of the hill, you will first need to pay a small admission fee of 30 baht (US$.95) to help maintain the grounds. After entering the gate, you must remove your shoes. Also, as with all sacred sites in Thailand, you must be appropriately dressed to enter.
The most magnificent structure on the grounds is the original copper plated chedi (or stupa), which is the holiest part of the complex. There are also two main pagodas, shrines, bells, and a scenic and photogenic overlook of Chiang Mai. There is also a market at the base of the temple complex selling all kinds of souvenirs.
Getting to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
The temple is about 9.3 miles (15 km) outside of the city. Part of the journey to the top of the hill where the temple is situated takes you through scenic woodlands. Almost all hotels and travel agencies in Chiang Mai can book tours for you to this site, with various ranges of prices.
It’s best to get there fairly early, before the hottest part of the day and before the site gets too crowded with tour busses.
Have a Cultural Experience at the Karen Tribal Village
A Karen Woman Weaving in Her Village
In addition to the Thai people, there are over 30 other ethnic groups found in Thailand. It’s very interesting to see how they live by taking a tour to a tribal village near Chiang Mai.
One tribe you can visit are the Karen (pronounced “ka-REN” and also known as the “long necks”). The women of this tribe wear brass rings around their necks, pushing their shoulders down, thereby making their necks appear longer.
The main profession of the tribal people of Thailand is farming, and this in fact has been the way they have made a living for a thousand or so years. Recently, however, the Karen have discovered a new way to augment their income by permitting tourism in their villages. They make money by selling hand-made items as well as posing for photographs with visitors.
You may hear of the controversy that surrounds tourism to the tribal villages. Some writers have even referred to it as promoting a “human zoo.” I don’t see it that way and I have personally been to the Karen village. The people there are just trying to make a living, just like all of us, and without tourism, they would struggle to make ends meet.
They certainly didn’t seem unhappy or oppressed when I was there and in fact were very warm and welcoming toward their visitors. I didn’t get the sense that they felt exploited at all. I think it’s all about the way one acts toward the villagers. If you just run in, snap a bunch of photos, and then rush back to the bus, well, that’s one thing. But if you show interest in the people and are respectful, then you’ll be A-OK.
At any rate, don’t listen to the hype. Do a little reading on the subject and make your own decision about how you feel.
The villages of the tribal people are in a beautiful and quite scenic part of the country and it’s worth going on the tour to not only get some great photographs, but also to experience a different culture and to see the natural beauty that surrounds the area as well.
Getting to the Villages
The Karen are very conscious of the threat to their traditional lifestyle and have become very guarded in order to protect their ways. I wouldn’t recommend going to the villages on your own. Only some villages welcome guests and even then, only a specific part of the village is open to visitors.
Thus, you should definitely book a tour through one of the many tour agencies in the city or through your hotel.
Doi Inthanon National Park
Napamaytanidol Chedi at Doi Ithanon National Park
If you want to truly enjoy the natural beauty of northern Thailand, you should treat yourself to a visit to Doi Inthanon National Park. There are so many things to do in this park that you could easily spend more than one day visiting and taking in the scenery there.
The park is comparatively new, only being established in 1972. Its total area is 186 square miles (482 square km). Doi Inthanon is the highest mountain in Thailand, with its highest peak measuring 8,410 feet (2,561 meters).
There are several waterfalls within the park. During the dry season (especially November through April), waterfalls in northern Thailand are not as spectacular as during the rest of the year but are still worth visiting.
Other attractions include visits to Karen and H’mong tribal villages, nature trails, caves, and scenic overlooks. Be sure your tour stops at the Napamaytanidol Chedi and Phra Mahatat Napaphon Bhumisiri, which is a magnificent monument built to honor the 60th birthday of King Bhumipol and Queen Sirikit, respectively.
Getting to Doi Inthanon National Park
The park is about 37 miles (60 km) from Chiang Mai. There are several tours that will take you there.
Be sure to check to see what the tour includes, as the park is so large and there are so many things to do there, that there are several variations on tours. If one tour doesn’t seem interesting to you, ask to see a different tour’s offerings or ask the tour agent if substitutions can be made.
More information about the park and a list of its major attractions can be found by visiting their official website.
The Chiang Mai Night Bazaar
Traditional Thai Dancers at the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar
After a full day of seeing the beautiful sights in and around the city, one of my favorite things to do is to just enjoy a slow, relaxing stroll around the city’s night bazaar, one of the main attractions of Chiang Mai.
The bazaar has a long history, going back to the days when Chinese traders would stop their caravans in the city on the way to Burma.
Today, the market has become so large that there are actually several markets that have fused into what seems like one giant market. The original bazaar is on the west side of Chang Klan Road, but the Galare Night Market is just across the street.
You can find all variety of handicrafts, clothing, home decorations, antiques, touristy souvenirs, and food. Prices are not exactly a bargain, but be sure to haggle down on the price. Don’t ever just accept the first price that is quoted to you.
One thing you wouldn’t want to miss are the Thai cultural shows performed on stages at the far ends of both the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar and at the Galare Night Bazaar. Here you can see traditional Thai dances. There is no charge for the shows.
If you like people watching, the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar is the place to go.
Getting to the Night Bazaar
Getting to the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar can easily be accomplished on foot, depending on where your hotel is located. If you are anywhere near the center of town, just walk east (toward the river) on Loi Kroh Road (one of the main streets in town) to Chang Klan Road, then turn left.
You will see the vendors spilling out onto the street and the main building of the market is just about 1/2 block down on the left-hand side.
So I really enjoy a nice cup of Vietnamese coffee.
Living in Saigon for the past seven years has provided an opportunity to enjoy some of the best coffee anywhere. Having coffee is a favorite past-time of the Vietnamese and Vietnam has some of the best coffee shops on the planet, and a lot of them.
There is never any difficulty in finding a great tasting cup of coffee, the closest cup often being no more than a block or two away from where you are currently standing. Vietnam is the second largest coffee producer in the world. Only Brazil surpasses Vietnam in coffee production. Having a coffee for the locals is not just a quick break, taken lightly.
Rather, it is an integral part of the culture, and you will see locals come into a coffee shop and spend the next hour (or more) there, socializing with friends and family, catching up on the news and gossip of the day, or just relaxing after a long day at work.
Traditional Vietnamese Coffee
Some of the best coffee in the world can be found in quiet alleyways in Ho Chi Minh City.
Traditional Vietnamese coffee is served four ways: hot black, iced black, hot with milk, and iced with milk. The milk used is condensed milk, which is very sweet. Ground coffee is placed into a metal filter, then boiling water is poured over the top.
The hot water passes through the coffee, then drips into your cup, in which a generous helping of condensed milk is poured beforehand. When the water quits dripping, you remove the filter from your cup, stir, and mmmmm, mmmmm, enjoy! If ice is to be added, the coffee is made using a larger glass, and then ice is poured into the glass.
Types of Traditional Vietnamese Cafés
Cafés in Saigon are an institution. There are many “mom and pop” (or often just mom) coffee shops to be found all over Vietnam. You can get an excellent cup of coffee in these places for 5,000 – 10,000 dong (the Vietnamese currency, equivalent to about 25 – 50 US cents).
There are, however, more upscale Vietnamese coffee shops, which serve excellent coffee, but also offer more in the way of other drinks, including alcoholic beverages, and even food. Some will offer live entertainment, including four-string quartets accompanied by an accomplished vocalist singing traditional Vietnamese favorites.
Tony Hung Tran, who was born in Saigon but emigrated to the US, came back to live and work in Saigon in 2008. He instantly found Saigon’s many café’s charming places to spend time relaxing after work and on weekends. He often sings in Saigon’s cafes.
“Cafés are one of the most popular meeting locations in the city,” Hung said. “They’re a common outlet for entertainment. People come to Cafés to gather with friends, have fun, relax, enjoy a drink, and to listen to music.” Cafes appeal to patrons of all ages, but they have become especially popular with the younger generations.
“Many patrons are young people, but really people of all ages enjoy coming to cafés,” Hung explained. “A lot of business people will actually make a cafe a meeting spot to discuss business and even sign contracts, etc.”
Cafés also provide the younger crowd with a safe and fun place to meet friends, and you’ll often see groups of young people chatting and focusing on their mobile devices while listening to the music at the same time.
Almost all cafes provide free wi-fi service.
Preserving Vietnamese Traditions
In a way, cafés have become a way to preserve a part of Vietnam’s heritage and culture. When asked what he loved most about singing in Saigon’s cafés, Hung said, “Firstly, I love the music; I like to sing for people. I like to revive the old, classic songs for the young people around the city. I think it’s great because a lot of the old songs may have been forgotten if they weren’t sung in the coffee shops so often.”
Cafés in Saigon generally serve not only coffee but also tea of every variety, fresh fruit juices, sodas, and even ice-cream-based treats. With all the things to do in Saigon, sometimes it’s hard choose what to do. If you want to get down with the locals and experience a true Saigon tradition, chill out for a while at one of the many cafés that have become a fixture in the city.
Modern Vietnamese Cafés
In addition to the traditional coffee shops, many cities and larger towns in Vietnam have more trendy venues, offering hipper drinks such as blended coffees, fruit smoothies, hot chocolate, etc.
Coffee is taken very seriously by traditional baristas.
One thing that I love about living in Vietnam is that there is so often a pleasant surprise right around the next corner. Recently, I was invited by a friend to come to a newer coffee shop in Saigon known as Passio Coffee.
They serve a full menu of more modern offerings, including cappuccino, lattes, and a wide variety of teas and fruit drinks. But they also have a show room, where all sorts of coffee making items can be bought. I was amazed at the wide variety of equipment that can be used to make coffee.
There was one apparatus that looked like it belonged more in a chemistry lab than in a coffee shop. The water is boiled using halogen lights, then the boiling water is drawn up into a large beaker, where ground coffee is placed. We got a private demonstration from Mr. Huan, a barista at Passio Coffee, and it was interesting to see coffee made in this way.
The coffee is of a high quality and had an excellent flavor. If you are, or have friends who are, true coffee lovers, be sure to come by their showroom at 15F Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street in Saigon. They have some unique gifts that would be a hit at any coffee serving.
Vietnamese Coffee with a…uh…Twist?
If you want to try something really unique, you can’t pass up the opportunity to sample weasel coffee (also known as civet coffee). No, the coffee is not made from weasels, and no animals are harmed in the process. Weasels (civets) naturally love to eat coffee beans that fall to the ground from the plants. As it passes through their digestive system, part of the bean is digested.
However, part of it passes completely through, and this part is collected, then roasted and ground just like any other coffee bean.
Harvested coffee beans ready to be roasted
But having passed through the digestive system of the weasel gives it an exceptionally smooth and unique chocolaty flavor. I know it sounds quite strange, and I thought it was at first, too. But I have tried it a few times and it’s actually quite delicious.
It’s called ca phe chon in Vietnamese and coffee shops offering the genuine weasel coffee fetch about US$30 for one cup or US$500 per kilogram for the roasted beans. You do have to be careful, though, as a lot of what claims to be weasel coffee is fake. Apparently, producers have a way of using chemical enzyme substitutes to create a similar flavor, but the beans were never eaten by a weasel.
If weasel coffee doesn’t appeal to you, certainly a traditional cup of Vietnamese coffee will. Do your palate a favor and be sure to treat yourself to a cup of coffee, or rather several cups, during your stay in Vietnam.
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